New Kegerator Build Advice

[JonW]

I think the key to look for is "frost free" if you are buying a freezer with adjustable shelves.

What about this one?

http://www.sears.com/frigidaire-21-cu-f ... 647712000P

Yes, that's a good one.

[bwarbiany]

Great, thanks.

[maltbarley]

Yup, same shelves as the freebie I found but looks like that has more room.

I like the one Sam has. I think he can fit 18 kegs in there, but check with him.

[JonW]

Sam's is the same as mine - 11 kegs total. 6 up top and 5 below. You can do 5 on the bottom if you put them in a staggered config and retain the door shelves, or you can do 6 on the bottom if you cut out the door shelves.

[bwarbiany]

You can use a slightly larger schedule 40+ PVC to make spacers to go through the insulation. Just make sure it's larger than the shank hole in the metal. Use a larger diameter hole saw on the back side to make room for your PVC spacers.

+1
Also use a large washer or similar item to spread out the load from backing nut
Suggest using silicon to seal the nut/washer combination otherwise condensation will accumulate in door...which leads to mold etc
Something else to consider is the total weight of 6 kegs on the shelf...six will weight over 250#

If you need help drilling etc, PM me

Okay, so let me make sure I understand. 1" Schedule 40 PVC according to Home Depot has a 1.033" ID and an 1.315" OD.

I'll line up all the holes I want to make and then make small pilot holes all the way through the door and the inside.

From there I use a 1 3/8" hole saw from the inside, cutting out all the insulation and plastic, but stopping as soon as that saw reaches the metal door.

I then use a 1" hole saw from the outside (or inside, I guess) to cut the metal.

That way my PVC spacer goes right up to the inside of the metal door, but not through the metal door, and the shank and collar use the metal door rather than the spacer as backing on the outside.

Is that right? I now have 4 beers kegged and want to get them on for serving before I have people over for the FF draft in ~3 wks. Right now I just have picnic taps and that just won't do

[DrDually]

You are correct...the PVC will butt up to the inside of metal skin on door.
However the backing nut and washer must be on inside of the plastic (facing fridge interior) and black or stainless collar on outside of the metal door
This will allow the backing nut to be tightened up without distorting plastic
How soon are you looking to get this done???

[JonW]

If you use the same flange collars on the inside as the outside, there's no need to use PVC spacers and dissimilar holes in/out.

[bwarbiany]

How soon are you looking to get this done???

Before Aug 28... But it's going to be very crazy up until then.

But I think based on the discussion so far, I know what to do. And luckily it's not my first kegerator build, so it was just a matter of understanding the best way to attack the door since I've never worked on a fridge door rather than a tower or a wooden collar.

[bwarbiany]

I realized that I haven't yet posted a picture of this...

Next on the list is drip trays, which I've ordered from Amazon. These.

How do I best attach these? Would self-tapping sheet metal screws do the trick? Or do I need to find a way to bolt all the way through to the inside of the insulation in the fridge?

[DrDually]

Self tapping sheet metal screws will work...just check door to make sure no coolant lined run thru it