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brew captain
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Re: Hello brewcommune

Post by brew captain »

With the fermenter in a water bath, the cyclonic action of the fermentation should exchange heat fairly efficiently with the water bath so your temperature inside and outside is fairly close to the same. Of course it will be slightly warmer inside until the fermentation slows down. Your main goal should be temperature consistency and less the actual fermentation temperature until you have equipment in place to control that factor (I do the water baths myself, but with glass carboys with the water filled to above the level of the wort). Yeasts do not like temperature fluctuations. I think you are fine with what you are currently employing so long as you are within the optimal temperature range of the yeast you used.


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Rezzin
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Re: Hello brewcommune

Post by Rezzin »

I don't use a water bath so I wasn't sure what your fermentation temps were but I'm assuming they might be a few degrees higher than then ambient water temp. If it was AIR, the temps could be MUCH different - as much as 6-10d higher.

Like the Cap'n said, I would just leave it how it is right now. 70d is on the warmer side (not for belgians though!) but it's not really too high. As long as what Brew Captain said was right about the cyclonic action keeping both the beer and water bath temps very close, you should be in really good shape. I've heard that beers brewed with extract sometimes have problems attenuating fully (I had that problem with a batch or two when I started out but it was probably pilot error) so I figured since yeast work more at warmer temps, it would be an added benefit.

Hope this clears things up.
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brahn
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Re: Hello brewcommune

Post by brahn »

When you're using a water bath it is safe to assume that the temperature of the water is the same as the temperature of the wort/beer, at least if you're using a bucket (I've just never tested it with a carboy.) I've done several tests during all stages of fermentation and the only times I've ever seen the temperature of the water different from the wort temp is when there was a sudden significant change in one or the other. For example, right after the wort was placed into the bath and before it's had a chance to come into equilibrium, or right after adding a bunch of ice to the water bath. Given an hour or two, it's back at equilibrium.
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maltbarley
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Re: Hello brewcommune

Post by maltbarley »

I'm gonna vote with brahn on this one. Submersed in water, heat transfers very quickly through glass or thin plastic.

Your set-up looks fine but you probably don't want the water to get too cool.
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JonGoku
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Re: Hello brewcommune

Post by JonGoku »

Thanks again for all the advice, without which I would be quite lost.

FYI the brew is:
:beer: Pale Ale (Stein Fillers kit)
American-style pale ale. Refreshingly bitter, accented towards citrusy hop flavor and aroma. Light amber color, moderate malt flavor and restrained caramel flavor.
OG: 1.056 FG: 1.013 SRM: 11 IBU: 47 ALCOHOL BY VOLUME: 5.7%

Although "warm side", "too cool", and similar descriptives are still a bit vague to me, they help give me a better feel for what I need to accomplish.

Edit: I just checked the instructions and it said to pitch the yeast after wort had chilled to <90F and then to ferment for 2 weeks. No mention of what temperature to try and maintain. The yeast package in the kit was 11.5 g Safale US-50 (Dry Ale Yeast) and listed on it a temperature range of 59~75F
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brew captain
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Re: Hello brewcommune

Post by brew captain »

Kind of ballsy to start off with a pale ale!! Most starter kits come with the ever forgiving muddy brown ale kit. Well done. I suggest dry hopping this baby...

I swear if I had this kind of support early on I would have my own microbrewery by now!!!



Cheers!!
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JonGoku
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Re: Hello brewcommune

Post by JonGoku »

brew captain wrote:Kind of ballsy to start off with a pale ale!! Most starter kits come with the ever forgiving muddy brown ale kit. Well done. I suggest dry hopping this baby...

I swear if I had this kind of support early on I would have my own microbrewery by now!!!

Cheers!!
Thanks, I did three hop additions, 0.5oz of Columbus to start the boil and then 0.5oz of cascade once at 40min and once at 60min as I finished the boil.

Here's a pic of the label on the kit's box.
Pale Ale Kit Label.jpg
Pale Ale Kit Label.jpg (123.93 KiB) Viewed 1438 times
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jward
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Re: Hello brewcommune

Post by jward »

Backyard Brewer wrote:
JonGoku wrote: FYI - I was disappointed though when I proudly told the gentleman who was helping me that I was a member of the brewcommune and should get a 5% or something discount, and he said they don't offer any discount to people outside the their own Long Beach brew club.

All told, I spent $97
That's Bullshit. I'll find out from Brian if he happens to know the current manager and make a call ( or have Brad make a call since he's the pres) But we've always received a discount there.
Any word? I didn't pursue a discount last time I shopped there. Seems like a silly policy to not offer discounts to any local club.
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JonGoku
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Re: Hello brewcommune

Post by JonGoku »

jward wrote:
Backyard Brewer wrote:
JonGoku wrote: FYI - I was disappointed though when I proudly told the gentleman who was helping me that I was a member of the brewcommune and should get a 5% or something discount, and he said they don't offer any discount to people outside the their own Long Beach brew club.

All told, I spent $97
That's Bullshit. I'll find out from Brian if he happens to know the current manager and make a call ( or have Brad make a call since he's the pres) But we've always received a discount there.
Any word? I didn't pursue a discount last time I shopped there. Seems like a silly policy to not offer discounts to any local club.
I still have my receipt and will try to see if I can get some love next time I'm in there, but before that I need to figure out some logistics in the garage before I can brew again. I have to minimize my hobby space, or face the music. I'd be interested to know though if any veteran members have talked with the store management etc though.
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