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1986, +/- a year...DrDually wrote:The lead was used to join copper piping in house. How old is home?
The one thing you want to try not to do is use hot water with a carbon filter that is used. The heat can open the pores and release all the previously trapped organics. hot water also makes them way less efficient for the same reason, so if you use one, don't run hot water through it.bwarbiany wrote:1986, +/- a year...DrDually wrote:The lead was used to join copper piping in house. How old is home?
But I should point out that this water doesn't traverse a lot of piping in the house. The sink I'm using to fill the bucket is <5 ft from the water heater. This is basically *right* at the output.
Yeah, I don't use a filter... I add campden tablets for chloramine, but otherwise just use the water as-is.backyard brewer wrote:The one thing you want to try not to do is use hot water with a carbon filter that is used. The heat can open the pores and release all the previously trapped organics. hot water also makes them way less efficient for the same reason, so if you use one, don't run hot water through it.
It was after you realized that the hop bag was stuck in the exit port; plenty of cussing when it didn't drain, specifically when you burned your hands, but nothing after you realized that you had to somehow get the bag unstuck! I believe cussing there would have solved everything.dhempy wrote:BTW ... where exactly did I forget to cuss? Seems like I cussed at most problems which as you mentioned ... tends to lead to the solution.
DAAAAAAMMMNNNN, GIIIINNNAAA!!! [<---90's "Martin" Joke.]DrDually wrote:[...]approx 14 gallons are in fermenter in about 5 minutes and almost ready to pitch yeast.
Wow!... Something's definately not right with you, LOL. J/K! That's fricken awesome!JonW wrote:I had mapped out my process timeline to see where I could overlap for back to back brew sessions.
[...]brewing_timeline.jpg
Good to know, Thank you.backyard brewer wrote:Personally I'd get in the habit of opening the flush valve the day before I brewed to flush the bottom of the heater. You should do that quarterly anyway.
(but not dissolved minerals or chloramine.DrDually wrote:Using a carbon block filter is certainly a good way to go. It will remove just about everything from tap water and cost is minimal
I thought it removed calcium when I bought it because I gots me some hard-ass water.)DrDually wrote:Wow! 3 hours to chill...I run hot wort thru filter with no screen directly to plate chiller then inline oxygenation and finally to fermenter. All of this is done running valves wide open which means approx 14 gallons are in fermenter in about 5 minutes and almost ready to pitch yeast.
With those chilling times I'm guessing that you guys aren't using 80+F tap water to do your chilling.JonW wrote:I had mapped out my process timeline to see where I could overlap for back to back brew sessions.
Yes, I'm using tap water and like Chris, I'm also using the Blichman Therminator. My estimated time in that chart allowed 15 minutes to chill and return back to the kettle and another 15 to chill and transfer to the fermenter. I'd say I usually chill & transfer in about 20+ minutes total. This time of the year I get high 70's on the temp in the fermenter. I then put it in my fridge to chill to 68-70 before pitching.brahn wrote:DrDually wrote:Wow! 3 hours to chill...I run hot wort thru filter with no screen directly to plate chiller then inline oxygenation and finally to fermenter. All of this is done running valves wide open which means approx 14 gallons are in fermenter in about 5 minutes and almost ready to pitch yeast.With those chilling times I'm guessing that you guys aren't using 80+F tap water to do your chilling.JonW wrote:I had mapped out my process timeline to see where I could overlap for back to back brew sessions.
Water that warm definitely sucks. In HB, most of our water is well water, so while it does get warmer in the summer, it isn't as warm as what is imported from the aquaducts.brahn wrote:There's no way for me to get to high 70s with my tap water during summer, that's colder than the water coming out of the tap. On my last brew day, I measured the temp of the bucket I filled for sanitizer and it was 83F.
I'm certain the Therminator is more efficient than my immersion chiller, but I'd be pretty impressed if it got the wort colder than the input water.
That's why, in the summer, I recirculate ice water through the CFC. One of these days I'll actually start thinking ahead and freeze tap water ahead of time for the ice, since I find myself spending ~$10 per batch to buy big bags of ice for the chiller... But as I said, I was able to get the wort last week (on a ridiculously hot day) down to 59 through the chiller.brahn wrote:There's no way for me to get to high 70s with my tap water during summer, that's colder than the water coming out of the tap. On my last brew day, I measured the temp of the bucket I filled for sanitizer and it was 83F.
This is certainly a potential upgrade.JonW wrote: How about a combo immersion/plate chiller system?
Put your immersion chiller in a 5 gallon bucket and run the tap water through it and into a plate chiller. Once your temps get to the low 80's mark, put some ice water in the bucket to pre-chill the tap water and bring it down the rest of the way.
I've done this with my immersion chiller too. I just don't like having to buy a 20# bag of ice for every brewday. Right now I get it as low as I can and let my freezer get it the rest of the way down to pitching temp. It means I don't pitch for several hours after I'm otherwise done brewing, but it's not that much of a hassle.bwarbiany wrote:That's why, in the summer, I recirculate ice water through the CFC. One of these days I'll actually start thinking ahead and freeze tap water ahead of time for the ice, since I find myself spending ~$10 per batch to buy big bags of ice for the chiller... But as I said, I was able to get the wort last week (on a ridiculously hot day) down to 59 through the chiller.
I was thinking this earlier while reading this thread, except I wondered what would happen if you put the IC in the wort and the PC after? Would that make it significantly more effective than a PC alone? I have neither and was looking to buy.JonW wrote:How about a combo immersion/plate chiller system?
It's not logical to do it that way. You need cool water going into both the IC and PC to cool the wort. If you run your cool water into the IC and then pump it through the PC, then it's already hot when going through the PC and won't cool anything. The only way to do what you are proposing is to split your hose to feed both the IC and PC at the same time - which doesn't really buy you much (if anything).nevery wrote:I was thinking this earlier while reading this thread, except I wondered what would happen if you put the IC in the wort and the PC after? Would that make it significantly more effective than a PC alone? I have neither and was looking to buy.JonW wrote:How about a combo immersion/plate chiller system?
I was thinking since the immersion chiller is so much less efficient, the plate would 'take up the slack' sort to say. I would think that at first the water expelled from the immersion would be hot, but after a little while, and in my experience, the water is like luke warm at best and the wort is still piping hot. So that's where I would flip a valve and drain, going through the plate as well. It's good to know that the plate chiller works well alone, so I'll just go that route. And as for temp control, looks like ice-bottles will still be my friend.JonW wrote:The plate chiller alone works extremely well and will get you close to where you need to be. If you are doing temperature controlled fermentation, then you can just put the wort in the fermenter and wait a short while to pitch.
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