APA/IPA recipe feedback needed

[lexuschris]

Hey all,

I am going to brew this Sunday, and have been wanting to get my APA/IPA recipes more dialed-in, but I feel I have really lost my way on these styles...

This recipe is based on some ingredients that I have on-hand and some left over hop bags... yes, I wanted to use up some of these extra items. However, I really wanted to make this a hoppy APA or light IPA which showcases the Galaxy hops form Australia and Simcoe.

Any comments, critiques, advice is always appreciated!

Recipe: Dingy Dingo Ale
Style: American IPA
TYPE: All Grain

Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Boil Size: 13.43 gal
Post Boil Volume: 12.48 gal
Batch Size (fermenter): 11.00 gal
Bottling Volume: 10.50 gal
Estimated OG: 1.065 SG
Estimated Color: 9.2 SRM
Estimated IBU: 62.9 IBUs
Brewhouse Efficiency: 70.00 %
Est Mash Efficiency: 76.4 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
8.00 g Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (Mash 60.0 mins Water Agent 1 -
5.00 ml Lactic Acid (Mash 60.0 mins) Water Agent 2 -
5.00 ml Lactic Acid (Mash 0.0 mins) Water Agent 3 -
4.00 g Calcium Chloride (Mash 60.0 mins) Water Agent 4 -
24.00 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) Fra (3.2 SRM) Grain 5 85.7 %
2.00 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L (40.0 SRM) Grain 6 7.1 %
1.00 lb Munich Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) Grain 7 3.6 %
1.00 lb Vienna Malt (3.5 SRM) Grain 8 3.6 %
1.25 oz Millenium [15.20 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 9 27.9 IBUs
1.00 oz Simcoe [12.10 %] - Boil 45.0 min Hop 10 16.3 IBUs
0.50 tsp Irish Moss (Boil 10.0 mins) Fining 11 -
1.00 tsp Yeast Nutrient (Boil 10.0 mins) Other 12 -
1.25 oz Cascade [7.10 %] - Boil 8.0 min Hop 13 3.9 IBUs
1.40 oz Ahtanum [5.20 %] - Boil 2.0 min Hop 14 0.9 IBUs
1.00 oz Galaxy [15.00 %] - Boil 2.0 min Hop 15 1.9 IBUs
1.00 oz Galaxy [15.00 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 20.0 Hop 16 6.7 IBUs
1.00 oz Simcoe [12.10 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 20.0 Hop 17 5.4 IBUs
2.0 pkg Safale American (DCL/Fermentis #US-05) Yeast 18 -


Mash Schedule: Single Infusion, Light Body, Batch Sparge
Total Grain Weight: 28.00 lb
----------------------------
Name Description Step Temperat Step Time
Mash In Add 9.25 gal of water at 158.5 F 148.0 F 75 min

Sparge: Batch sparge with 2 steps (Drain mash tun , 8.04gal) of 168.0 F water

Thanks,
--LexusChris

[DrDually]

Chris
Are you using RO or city water run thru a carbon block filter?

[maltbarley]

I just made one with a similar grain bill and it came out great with the low mash temp.

[DrDually]

Chris L APA IPA Water Calc 12Feb15.pdf

(158.45 KiB) Downloaded 947 times

Adj Chris L APA IPA Water Calc 12Feb15.pdf

(158.67 KiB) Downloaded 988 times

Chris
If using IRWD tap water, the addition of gypsum will lower the chloride/sulfate ration to about .45
This will make beer more bitter
However, if you delete gypsum and add 8 g calcium chloride to mash (see adj file), 6.9 g to sparge, 8 ml lactic acid to mash, the resulting chloride/sulfate ratio will fall around 1.03 which is more middle of road and mash pH will fall around 5.41
That is unless you want a bitter beer
Hope this helps

[bwarbiany]

I personally try to avoid any crystal darker than 20L in an IPA. You can kick up the Munich/Vienna as a replacement for some of the Pale if you want to add some malt without going too sweet.

Other than that, I think your "Dingy" dingo is being a bit "Stingy" with the hops...

If you don't want to dry-hop, I'd consider doubling all your late additions. If you are going to dry-hop, I'd consider doubling your whirlpool additions and using roughly the same quantity for dry-hopping.

[lexuschris]

Some good suggestions. Thank you!

I had shifted the recipe around a tad in Beersmith, without recalcing the water adjustments. I will be sure to re-do that. Good catch!

I use carbon filtered tap water, which I had tested at Ward's a few years back. So, I have a good water report, and that is what I use for my spreadsheet. I should probably plan on doing another test this year.. its been long enough, and those things do change over time.

I also like the idea of moving more hops into the whirlpool, and doubling up so I can skip the idea of dry-hoping. With the sanke-fermenter, I do not have a tried & tested method to dry hop. The last time I did dry-hop, I just used two bucket fermenters, and it was easy enough. I could go that route too.. hmmm....

Tim, thanks for the feedback on the malt bill. I have this big bag of french pale malt on hand, and was hoping it might be good in this beer. I'll give it a go!!

Now, just hoping the winds die down by Sunday. I hate brewing with all that crap whirling around in the air during Santa Ana winds..


--LexusChris

[lexuschris]

Revised recipe to:

Recipe: Dingy Dingo Ale
Style: American IPA
TYPE: All Grain

Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Boil Size: 13.43 gal
Post Boil Volume: 12.48 gal
Batch Size (fermenter): 11.00 gal
Bottling Volume: 10.50 gal
Estimated OG: 1.065 SG
Estimated Color: 9.2 SRM
Estimated IBU: 59.1 IBUs
Brewhouse Efficiency: 70.00 %
Est Mash Efficiency: 76.4 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
5.00 g Calcium Chloride (Mash 60.0 mins) Water Agent 1 -
5.00 ml Lactic Acid (Mash 60.0 mins) Water Agent 2 -
2.00 ml Lactic Acid (Mash 0.0 mins) Water Agent 3 -
24.00 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) Fra (3.2 SRM) Grain 4 85.7 %
2.00 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L (40.0 SRM) Grain 5 7.1 %
1.00 lb Munich Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) Grain 6 3.6 %
1.00 lb Vienna Malt (3.5 SRM) Grain 7 3.6 %
1.25 oz Millenium [15.20 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 8 27.9 IBUs
0.50 tsp Irish Moss (Boil 10.0 mins) Fining 9 -
1.00 tsp Yeast Nutrient (Boil 10.0 mins) Other 10 -
2.00 oz Galaxy [15.00 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 20.0 Hop 11 13.3 IBUs
2.00 oz Simcoe [12.10 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 20.0 Hop 12 10.7 IBUs
1.40 oz Ahtanum [5.20 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 20.0 Hop 13 3.2 IBUs
1.25 oz Cascade [7.10 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 20.0 Hop 14 3.9 IBUs
2.0 pkg Safale American (DCL/Fermentis #US-05) Yeast 15 -


Mash Schedule: Single Infusion, Light Body, Batch Sparge
Total Grain Weight: 28.00 lb
----------------------------
Name Description Step Temperat Step Time
Mash In Add 9.25 gal of water at 158.5 F 148.0 F 75 min

Sparge: Batch sparge with 2 steps (Drain mash tun , 8.04gal) of 168.0 F water

[SamIam]

Slightly off topic but looking over Chris's recipe raised a question. For those that do a long hops whirlpool do you still add your kettle finings and yeast nutrients with 10 minutes left in the boil or do you add them with 10 minutes left in the whirlpool? Is there any harm in leaving them in for so long?

[brahn]

Looks good to me, Chris. I like the bigger hop additions. I'd probably have stuck with the Gypsum for this style because I like my APA/IPA crisp and bitter but that's a matter of preference.

Sam, I still add mine during the boil like normal. I haven't noticed any harm.

[bwarbiany]

Slightly off topic but looking over Chris's recipe raised a question. For those that do a long hops whirlpool do you still add your kettle finings and yeast nutrients with 10 minutes left in the boil or do you add them with 10 minutes left in the whirlpool? Is there any harm in leaving them in for so long?

I don't think nutrients are an issue to add earlier, but I have heard that irish moss / whirlfloc denatures after about 15 minutes of boiling temps, so it's not something you want to leave in too long.

I brewed last night and since it was just a blonde ale, I did a 10 minute hop whirlpool. I moved my nutrients and whirlfloc to ~5 minutes left in the boil so I wouldn't boil them too long.

[bwarbiany]

I also like the idea of moving more hops into the whirlpool, and doubling up so I can skip the idea of dry-hoping. With the sanke-fermenter, I do not have a tried & tested method to dry hop. The last time I did dry-hop, I just used two bucket fermenters, and it was easy enough. I could go that route too.. hmmm....

I use pellets, and I just toss them in the sanke fermenter after fermentation dies down. If you use leaf, you'd probably need some way to bag them.

[lexuschris]

I use pellets, and I just toss them in the sanke fermenter after fermentation dies down. If you use leaf, you'd probably need some way to bag them.

Do the pellet hops drop down to the bottom during the cold crash? Any issues with kegging and getting too much hop trub?
--LexusChris

[JonW]

I use pellets, and I just toss them in the sanke fermenter after fermentation dies down. If you use leaf, you'd probably need some way to bag them.

Do the pellet hops drop down to the bottom during the cold crash? Any issues with kegging and getting too much hop trub?
--LexusChris

Yes, they settle out pretty good and as long as you don't push your racking arm down to far, you should be pulling good clear beer.

[bwarbiany]

I use pellets, and I just toss them in the sanke fermenter after fermentation dies down. If you use leaf, you'd probably need some way to bag them.

Do the pellet hops drop down to the bottom during the cold crash? Any issues with kegging and getting too much hop trub?
--LexusChris

Yes, they settle out pretty good and as long as you don't push your racking arm down to far, you should be pulling good clear beer.

Yep, this is my experience too.

[BrewMasterBrad]

I don't think nutrients are an issue to add earlier, but I have heard that irish moss / whirlfloc denatures after about 15 minutes of boiling temps, so it's not something you want to leave in too long.

I brewed last night and since it was just a blonde ale, I did a 10 minute hop whirlpool. I moved my nutrients and whirlfloc to ~5 minutes left in the boil so I wouldn't boil them too long.

That's an interesting point about the whirlfloc. I normally add it with 5 minutes left in the boil because I heard the same thing about it denaturing if left in the boil too long. On one of my recent Pale Ales, I added a butt load of hops at flame out and whirlpooled hot for about 30 minutes. That beer never did clear very well and now I am thinking it was due to the whirlfloc denaturing. I will have to keep that in mind next time I use that process.