Everything to know about pumps

bwarbiany · Post by **bwarbiany** » Wed May 21, 2008 12:18 pm

So, the time has finally come for me to set up a system with pumps. The only problem is that I've never used them and I have no idea what I'm doing...

So here's what I need to know.

Assume first that I'm buying this pump:

1) I assume that this just plugs into a standard 3-prong 115V wall outlet.
2) I need a ball valve on the output for flow control. Will this simply attach to the 1/2" MPT on the out port of the pump?
3) Out of the ball valve, I assume I just use this connected to some high-temp tubing.
4) On the input side, I need to hook up tubing. Is this coupler what I need, with an MPT to barb fitting like the above in #3?

I assume that with the above, I can turn on the pumps and regulate flow, and that's really all I need to do. Is this accurate?

dhempy · Post by **dhempy** » Wed May 21, 2008 12:24 pm

Hi Brad:

I have a pair of these pumps and they work great. Yes, they are simple 110v. I've got mine plumbed with a "T" to two ball valves. Having a "T" will also help you prime the pumps.

Out of my ball valves I've got the polysulphone QDs which are connected to the 1/2" silicone tubing. I've got some of these at different lengths and with 2 pumps and differing hoses, one can pump anywhere, anytime.

I bought most of my SS (ball vales and connectors) off E-Bay but my contact is no longer reachable via e-mail (and the rest of the contaqct info was on the old board). FWIW, his name was Dave Horine and he was in the midwest somewhere.

HTH...Dan

bwarbiany · Post by **bwarbiany** » Wed May 21, 2008 1:12 pm

Dan,

Can you explain a little better how the T is set up? I'm not quite understanding your point.

For priming the pumps, my plan was simply to have them below the ball valve of the keggle & kettle, so that they would prime due to gravity. Will this work?

Then, I was still trying to figure out how to prime them if I wanted to pump from fermenter to keg, but I hadn't figured that part out yet. Is this something the T would help with?

backyard brewer · Post by **backyard brewer** » Wed May 21, 2008 1:19 pm

I have one of these pumps and plan on another. I have my system setup so that all my kettles and heat exchangers have male QD's on them and my hoses have female QD's on them. My pump has a female on the inlet and a ball-valve and male on the outlet. This way, I can hang my pump directly from the vessel and attach a hose to it, eliminating the need for an inlet hose. I simply move the pump to which ever vessel I need to pump from.

This works pretty well and I have few if any priming problems. Before that, I had nothing but priming problems. Heat hasn't been an issue yet. The only thing is that March recommends having the motor body in a horizontal position and gravity obviously pulls the pump motor into a vertical position.

Flow is controlled with the ball valve.

dhempy · Post by **dhempy** » Wed May 21, 2008 2:07 pm

bwarbiany wrote:Dan,

Can you explain a little better how the T is set up? I'm not quite understanding your point.

For priming the pumps, my plan was simply to have them below the ball valve of the keggle & kettle, so that they would prime due to gravity. Will this work?

Then, I was still trying to figure out how to prime them if I wanted to pump from fermenter to keg, but I hadn't figured that part out yet. Is this something the T would help with?

Hey Brad:

Let me see if I can explain the "T" setup.

I've attached the pump out to one of the upper crosses of the T (such that for one direction of flow, there is a straight through shot. On the other end of the cross, I've got a nipple, then a ball valve, then the QD. These are all in line as a direct straight through shoe. Off the base of the T (the part that "dead ends" such that flow must go left or right, I've got a nipple, a 90 degree elbow, another nipple, and then another ball valve and QD. Both ball valves are parallel at this point. So you can change flow output by turning one ball valve on and another off. On my HLT pump, I have one side that recirculates into the HLT and one that is plumbed to my mashtun. Normally, in HERMS mode, the valves are set to recirc. But for mashin, I open one and close the other and hot liquor is transferred to my tun. Once dough in is compete, pump off, reverse the valves, and viola. I used to do it with the QDs but after burning my hand a time or two (and finding an extra ball valve, I made the change.

To assist in priming, you can open the closed valve to let air out of the pump. With long input runs, priming can be a challenge sometimes, when I have the input directly over the pump, priming isn't a problem, but when cleaning, I may have a 4 foot hose to the input side ... opening the second ball valve with no connection purges the air and is a great assist.

Clear as mud???

BTW you probably already know this, but put your ball valves on the output side to control flow. Best not to starve the pump.

Dan

bwarbiany · Post by **bwarbiany** » Thu May 29, 2008 3:28 pm

Can someone look over my shopping list and let me know if it looks correct?

I'm giving money to Dustin shortly and sending him to B3 to buy these, and may not be able to view these pumps until the morning we're supposed to use them. So anything I can do to be sure we have the full list of gear will be helpful.

lars · Post by **lars** » Thu May 29, 2008 3:56 pm

You may want to call ahead and make sure they have the pump etc in stock. I believe they have had some issues keeping them in stock recently.

bwarbiany · Post by **bwarbiany** » Thu May 29, 2008 4:49 pm

Lars wrote:You may want to call ahead and make sure they have the pump etc in stock. I believe they have had some issues keeping them in stock recently.

Most definitely, especially since we want to buy 2x of each... But I also want to make sure I'm asking if they have the right things in stock

maltbarley · Post by **maltbarley** » Thu May 29, 2008 4:57 pm

Brian now stocks those pumps as well.

backyard brewer · Post by **backyard brewer** » Thu May 29, 2008 5:06 pm

maltbarley wrote:Brian now stocks those pumps as well.

I was just going to say I'm pretty sure he had those on the shelf last time I was there.

bwarbiany · Post by **bwarbiany** » Fri May 30, 2008 11:05 pm

Seriously... I hate to be too brash about this...

Would someone who has used pumps take a look at my impromptu "shopping list" (you know, all the links), and let me know if I'm on the right track?

I'm probably not going to be going to B3 personally to buy these, so having outside input is crucial.

maltbarley · Post by **maltbarley** » Sat May 31, 2008 5:54 am

What you have listed above will get you set up with a pump that you can regulate and hoses hanging off at both ends.

I would highly recommend adding some quick disconnects to the ends of the hoses and more importantly, a switch for the pump.

Also, when you are in doubt, just start building your set-up in the store. If the B3 guys don't help, there's usually customer in the store that will help.

bwarbiany · Post by **bwarbiany** » Sat May 31, 2008 9:01 am

Thanks Tim... I think there are some uses for QD's, but I haven't quite figured out that part yet... I might just cobble it together for the first brew session in a few weeks, and then decide from there how I want to improve upon it.

PMR · Post by **PMR** » Sat May 31, 2008 11:30 am

I agree with Tim-- if you want to do this right, install QD's. Otherwise, you're risking your hands very hot liquids, hose clamps, and possible leaks once you turn on the pump. You have to switch hoses fairly often, and you want to do this as quickly and safely as possible.

As Derrin suggested, put male QD's on each vessel and on the inlet / outlet of the pump. If you have a counter flow chiller, install male QD's on the inlet / outlet of that as well. Put female QD's on your hoses.

I have brass QD's (from More Beer but they are pretty much garden hose QD's) that are very inexpensive and get the job done. It'll be an extra $30 or so to get a few sets.