Tap water quality report

[JonGoku]

I finally found the water quality report for my area (I think). It could not specifically find Stanton, but I assume it is clumped in with the West Orange County area. Here is the link to the report and as it's a bit greek to me I would greatly appreciate someones help in deciphering it for me

--> West Orange County Water Report <--

- Are there any members or forum browsers who have experience with the West Orange County tap water?
- Can you brew with it?
- Can it be "fixed" without a filter by adding tablets of some sort or another?

I have an RO filter that I could use if needed, but I heard somewhere that using RO water removed too many minerals that were necessary for brewing and I'm not sure which I would need to add back in to make this work. If tap water is a viable option this would this would save me from buying bottled water.

For those elsewhere in OC and interested in your report, you can find your specific water report HERE.

[brew captain]

Looks like good brewing water to me. In the upper middle range so far as hardness goes. You can make almost any style with this water, but pale & hoppy beers will be better than the maltier styles without treatment.

Cheers!

[JonGoku]

Looks like good brewing water to me. In the upper middle range so far as hardness goes. You can make almost any style with this water, but pale & hoppy beers will be better than the maltier styles without treatment.

Cheers!

What would you suggest to use to teating it for maltier styles?
Was the Chloramine (a no no, or so I heard for brewing) within an acceptable amount? I couldn't figure that out.

[brew captain]

Harder waters accentuates hoppiness (think English Pale Ale). Softer waters accentuate maltiness (think Oktoberfest). In your case I would run your tap water through the RO process (since you have the system already) before making something like an Porter, Altbier or Bock. Or just run it through a carbon block filter and brew with it.

Or RDWHAHB...


Cheers!

[BrewMasterBrad]

I charcoal (carbon) filter my water and make minimal adjustments depending on the style of beer. Water chemistry is a funny thing and unless you have an aptitude for it, it is very difficult to understand. My suggestion is, given your level of curiosity and your history of over-analyzing everything, don't go down that rabbit hole. If you use a charcoal filter and your water tastes good, it's good for brewing with. Water chemistry takes on a whole other dimension when you start brewing all-grain since mash pH and residual alkalinity play a big part in beer quality. As an extract brewer, you don't really need to worry about it unless there are huge amounts of certain minerals that may be toxic to the yeast (which is very, very rare). Using RO water for extract beers is not unheard of since the malt extract contains many of the minerals the yeast need and you should always use a yeast nutrient as well.

[maltbarley]

+1

[Rezzin]

Coming from someone who went the whole RO water + mineral additions route - I +1 Brad's response. I went back to carbon filtered tap water and 50/50 RO/tap when brewing light lagers. If you have a problem with the end product there's just too many variables in play trying to determine the cause. Once you get your brewing process down, then I'd say try it out. It's also a major PITA saving all that water, weighing out all the mineral additions to both your mash and sprage water, etc...

I've got a gram scale and minerals for sale if you are set on it

[JonGoku]

Harder waters accentuates hoppiness (think English Pale Ale). Softer waters accentuate maltiness (think Oktoberfest). In your case I would run your tap water through the RO process (since you have the system already) before making something like an Porter, Altbier or Bock. Or just run it through a carbon block filter and brew with it.

Or RDWHAHB...


Cheers!

Great advice, I think that will settle me for now while I brew extracts.

I charcoal (carbon) filter my water and make minimal adjustments depending on the style of beer. Water chemistry is a funny thing and unless you have an aptitude for it, it is very difficult to understand. My suggestion is, given your level of curiosity and your history of over-analyzing everything, don't go down that rabbit hole. If you use a charcoal filter and your water tastes good, it's good for brewing with. Water chemistry takes on a whole other dimension when you start brewing all-grain since mash pH and residual alkalinity play a big part in beer quality. As an extract brewer, you don't really need to worry about it unless there are huge amounts of certain minerals that may be toxic to the yeast (which is very, very rare). Using RO water for extract beers is not unheard of since the malt extract contains many of the minerals the yeast need and you should always use a yeast nutrient as well.

Me overanalyze?!? Ok, maybe a little, although I prefer to think of it as “looking both ways before crossing the road”. Since I have less freedom, time, & money to learn the hard way like some of you I also adhere to the “no question's a silly question” rule and will take any giggling on the side line in good nature.

I don’t have a carbon filter and will not spend time looking for one comparing price, specs, etc. just because you and the Cap’n mentioned it…. Ok maybe a little bit of time... or maybe just a little more than a little. Screw it! I’ll spend more time then I should looking at filters, but hopefully not until I venture into AG.

Coming from someone who went the whole RO water + mineral additions route - I +1 Brad's response. I went back to carbon filtered tap water and 50/50 RO/tap when brewing light lagers. If you have a problem with the end product there's just too many variables in play trying to determine the cause. Once you get your brewing process down, then I'd say try it out. It's also a major PITA saving all that water, weighing out all the mineral additions to both your mash and sprage water, etc...

I've got a gram scale and minerals for sale if you are set on it

Ok, so I’m not the only nutt! Thanks for the feedback as I appreciate you speaking from your own experience. I’m happy to know I’ll be ok with tap water for now and can fall back on you if I go and get mineral crazy.

The main intent of the thread was to clarify if tap water in our area was ok, and if I needed to toss in anything in to remove Chloramine. I don’t mind supporting the LHBS, but the Ralphs can do without me, or at least my buying water.

[brew captain]

For around $30 and a trip to Home Depot you can get an "under the counter" style carbon filter system that will remove chlorine and chloramines from your tap water (remember to go really, really slow flow or you will defeat the purpose)...

Cheers!

[BrewMasterBrad]

Jon, I think we all appreciate your questions and your enthusiasm. Like I always used to tell my college students, there are no stupid questions, but there are inquisitive idiots. MoreBeer sells a carbon filter system with all the connections for hooking up to an outside water faucet. Like BC said, slow flow, like a gallon a minute at the most to make sure you get all the chlorine and chloramines removed.

[JonGoku]

For around $30 and a trip to Home Depot you can get an "under the counter" style carbon filter system that will remove chlorine and chloramines from your tap water (remember to go really, really slow flow or you will defeat the purpose)...

Cheers!

"under the counter" = "over the kegarator" or was it shed in your case if IIRC. I didn't pay much attention to how it was set up at the time, but I assume it can be connected and disconnected when needed right? I could keep it in my brewery closet when not in use and bring it out to attach to the garden hose when needed right?

What about camden tablets, or is it just easier to go with a slow flow carbon filter?

I'm over analyzing again aren't I?

[jward]

I think one should get rid of the chlorine from their water. When I did extract I purchased water. With extract you don't have to worry about having enough calcium or anything else for the mash. If the water is tasty to drink it should be tasty in the beer. Also, look for "activated carbon" and avoid "charcoal". Next time I replace my carbon filter I will go with solid block carbon filter. The water has to go through a solid block carbon filter and not just around the granules. Home Depot and Lowes didn't use to carry these, and I will probably have to go through McMaster Carr.

[JonGoku]

Jon, I think we all appreciate your questions and your enthusiasm. Like I always used to tell my college students, there are no stupid questions, but there are inquisitive idiots. MoreBeer sells a carbon filter system with all the connections for hooking up to an outside water faucet. Like BC said, slow flow, like a gallon a minute at the most to make sure you get all the chlorine and chloramines removed.

And you'll let me know when I cross the line?
Thanks for the morebeer suggestion. I checked it out and it's a lot simpler then I thought.

[JonGoku]

Also, look for "activated carbon" and avoid "charcoal". Next time I replace my carbon filter I will go with solid block carbon filter. The water has to go through a solid block carbon filter and not just around the granules. Home Depot and Lowes didn't use to carry these, and I will probably have to go through McMaster Carr.

Gotcha

[brew captain]

That is the type of filter a lot of us use. If you change the fittings and the filter media (spun) you can also use it to filter your beer but need to get up to kegging to make that happen...


Cheers!