kegerator construction
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kegerator construction
I need to attach the wood extension to the top of the chest freezer. What is common practice? How did you attach yours? Would you do anything differently? The main detail seems to be whether to use caulking in between the extension and freezer or just let the sealing corner bead of caulking hold the extension in place.
Re: kegerator construction
Hey John:
My kegerator has the 10" tall 1 1/8" white melamine collar. I did not caulk it ... in each corner, I put a 1/4" aluminum pin that fits down into the top of the freezer and the whole thing simply sits on top of the freezer. The door is mounted to the collar.
Dan
My kegerator has the 10" tall 1 1/8" white melamine collar. I did not caulk it ... in each corner, I put a 1/4" aluminum pin that fits down into the top of the freezer and the whole thing simply sits on top of the freezer. The door is mounted to the collar.
Dan
Re: kegerator construction
Mine uses 2x4s and a 1x6 piece around the front and sides as a sort of facade. Painted and sealed with several coats of varethane. It is caulked to the freezer part. If I had it to do over again I would probably mount it to the lid so the lines go up out of the way. At the very least I would put the faucets out the side, or grouped at one end of the freezer, instead of spaced evenly on the front of it. The lines and shanks can get in the way.
Kevin
Re: kegerator construction
I have pictures in the gallery from when I built it. Don't have any recent ones, but the kegerator itself hasn't really changed, just the contents and surroundings. I did add a drip tray that Lyn built for me.
http://www.brewcommune.com/coppermine/t ... p?album=34
http://www.brewcommune.com/coppermine/t ... p?album=34
Kevin
Re: kegerator construction
The wood extension is on with lid.
I'm currently freezing grain in it to make sure any beetles are dead. I didn't actually see any but 2 sacks are un-opened.
Did you insulate the wood? The wood is noticeably cooler then the lid or sides. The wood is not sweating. It in deep freeze mode at the moment and my not be as noticeable when only chilling to 38.
I'm currently freezing grain in it to make sure any beetles are dead. I didn't actually see any but 2 sacks are un-opened.
Did you insulate the wood? The wood is noticeably cooler then the lid or sides. The wood is not sweating. It in deep freeze mode at the moment and my not be as noticeable when only chilling to 38.
Re: kegerator construction
Nope, not insulated. Just sealed with A LOT of varethane like I mentioned. The wood isn't really that much cooler, considering the sides are usually a little warm from it running. I think once it isn't freezing anymore it won't be a problem.jward wrote:The wood extension is on with lid.
I'm currently freezing grain in it to make sure any beetles are dead. I didn't actually see any but 2 sacks are un-opened.
Did you insulate the wood? The wood is noticeably cooler then the lid or sides. The wood is not sweating. It in deep freeze mode at the moment and my not be as noticeable when only chilling to 38.
Make sure the inside seams are sealed up good though, you don't want any rust.
Kevin
Re: kegerator construction
The skirt is on. It turns out that a 2x6 does not add enough height to fit 2 full height kegs over the compressor. It's very close. I may be able to replace the plastic cover on the inside lid or just use short kegs like before. Or I could make use of extra space there for CO2 regulators etc.
Re: kegerator construction
Assuming you're talking about ball locks, did you think about using some pin locks there instead? If your anti pinlock you could look into converting them to ball lock.jward wrote:The skirt is on. It turns out that a 2x6 does not add enough height to fit 2 full height kegs over the compressor. It's very close. I may be able to replace the plastic cover on the inside lid or just use short kegs like before. Or I could make use of extra space there for CO2 regulators etc.
Jon