Can beer ferment in 12 hours ?

[oc eric]

I brewed last Friday. My SG was 1.054 and the estimated was 1.074. I rehydrated the Winsor yeast with Go Ferm. An hour later it was "going nuts". By late morning the next day there was no activity. Is it done? Is it going to taste OK?

I couldn't find a "HELP" forum so I posted here. Let me know if it is the right place or not.

Thanks,

Eric

[oc eric]

That is what I was afraid of. I'll take a hydrometer reading and post the results.

[backyard brewer]

It's not uncommon for a fermenter to be leaking C02 as well, especially a bucket. So it might look like fermentation stopped, but it could be going strong.

[oc eric]

It's been 11 days since the yeast was pitched and I finally got around to taking a gravity sample. It came out 1.032. FG for English IPA is 1.010 - 1.018 so it still has a long way to go.

That seems to happen to all my beers - I never get the SG high enough or the FG low enough.

I'll take a sample tomorrow and see if it has changed our not. If it has not, any suggestions on how to get the FG down?

Thx

[brahn]

What are you using the test the gravities? If you're using a hydrometer, have you checked it's calibration recently? Try checking the gravity of some roughly 60 degree water, it should come out really close to 1.000.

[oc eric]

Eric - that reading is way high.
I typically can't get the FG down to the required range.

Something has gone awry. Please post up your recipe and process so we can try to figure out what is going on. I am specifically looking for things such as your sanitizer of choice, if you are topping up with unfiltered tap water, the pitch temp and your steep/mash protocol. Ingredients can play a major role in your finish gravity also...

I use Star San for sanitizing. I filter my water with a good filter from Lowe's, I'm not measuring my temp of the wort when I pitch.
2 Row Pale Ale
English IPA


Type: All Grain
Date: 10/16/2009
Batch Size: 5.00 gal
Brewer: Eric Addison
Boil Size: 6.82 gal Asst Brewer:
Boil Time: 60 min Equipment: Brew Pot (15 Gal) and Igloo/Gott Cooler (10 Gal)
Taste Rating(out of 50): 0.0 Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00
Taste Notes:

Ingredients

Amount Item Type % or IBU
9 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 66.67 %
3 lbs 8.0 oz Munich Malt (9.0 SRM) Grain 25.93 %
1 lbs Caramel/Crystal Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) Grain 7.41 %
3.00 oz Glacier [5.60 %] (60 min) Hops 50.7 IBU
0.50 tsp Irish Moss (Boil 10.0 min) Misc



Beer Profile

Est Original Gravity: 1.074 SG
Measured Original Gravity: 1.054 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.019 SG Measured Final Gravity: 1.032 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 7.15 % Actual Alcohol by Vol: 2.87 %
Bitterness: 50.7 IBU Calories: 253 cal/pint
Est Color: 8.2 SRM Color: Color


Mash Profile

Mash Name: Single Infusion, Medium Body, No Mash Out Total Grain Weight: 13.50 lb
Sparge Water: 5.02 gal Grain Temperature: 72.0 F
Sparge Temperature: 168.0 F TunTemperature: 72.0 F
Adjust Temp for Equipment: FALSE Mash PH: 5.4 PH

Single Infusion, Medium Body, No Mash Out Step Time Name Description Step Temp
60 min Mash In Add 4.22 gal of water at 165.9 F 154.0 F



Mash Notes: Simple single infusion mash for use with most modern well modified grains (about 95% of the time).
Carbonation and Storage

Carbonation Type: Corn Sugar Volumes of CO2: 2.4
Pressure/Weight: 3.8 oz Carbonation Used: -
Keg/Bottling Temperature: 60.0 F Age for: 28.0 days
Storage Temperature: 52.0 F

Notes


Created with BeerSmith

Thanks for any help.

[maltbarley]

Did you taste it? If some nasty bacteria got to it before your yeast, you'll most likely be able to taste the off flavor.

[lexuschris]

Hey Eric,

A few more questions for you...

What kind of water filter are you using? Reverse osmosis? carbon? etc. And you are filtering your tap water right?

When you are cooling down your wort, what tempature are you pitching your yeast at? (or an estimate of what temp you are at.) What is your cool-down process?

What kind of thermometer you using and have you checked its calibration?

For fermentation, what tempature were you at, and what is your method to control tempature if any at this point? Do you slosh the fermenter well, or oxygenate otherwise?

What is your sparge process? Tempature & duration?

Here is what I am thinking.. Your recipe looked good. However, you did not achieve the efficiency you were hoping for. Not the end of the world, but we should look at factors like ph of your water, and thus mash ph, as well as tempature of the mash.

And for your fermentation, your yeast took off like mad initially, but petered out before the job was done. This may mean that the enviornment was not friendly to the yeast, they were shocked by the enviornment change, or perhaps they were just worn out.

I'm not familiar with FermTab & dry yeast ... does that provide a nutrient, and/or some fermentables for them to feed upon?

I know the guys here can help you figure this out .. just need some more details..
--LexusChris

[dhempy]

Hi Eric:

I confirmed your OG / FG numbers in Beersmith as a double check.

I was going to ask you many of the same questions Brew Captain did (he posted as I am typing).

I would add that you tell us about the type and calibration of your hydrometer / refractometer. Also are you taking temps in multiple places in your mash (to confirm your mash temp). My mashtun has a thermowell so it has only a single place to read the temp so I do a lot of stirring to make sure that the temp is not stratified horizontally or vertically. Also, how are you sparging (describe the process ... fly, batch, etc.)?

You should probably go through the exercise of calibrating Beersmith (brew house efficiency immediately comes to mind) since you're constantly having trouble hitting your OG estimates. See this. How is your grain milled .. at the LHBS or do you have your own mill? If you have your own, maybe it needs an adjustment.

Good Luck

[oc eric]

What are you using the test the gravities? If you're using a hydrometer, have you checked it's calibration recently? Try checking the gravity of some roughly 60 degree water, it should come out really close to 1.000.

I use an optical hydrometer that measure in Specific Gravity.

[oc eric]

OK, here is my attempt to answer questions from 3 seperate posts:

1. What filter am I using?
I'm using a carbon blovk filter from Lowe's. It filters chlorine, particulates, at the 3 micron level (I think).

2. How do I cool down my wort?
I have a copper wort chiller that I run for 35 minutes. I haven't taken a temp since the first time I did it.

3. What is my cool down process?
I use the wort chiller for 35 minutes then tube the wort from the boil kettle to a glass fermentation bottle.

4. What temp do you pitch the yeast at?
Idon't usually rehydrate the yeast, but if it calls for it then I get the water to the 70's. I don't know the temp of the wort it is going into.

5. What kind of thermometer am I using?
I use a brewer's best thermometer. I just bought a Sunbeam Instant read thermometer to double check temps.

6. How do I control temperature during fermentation?
Well...I don't. And with the temps being in the 90's and 100's during the day and now 50's at night I'd say the wide swings in temperatures are probably killing my yeast prematurely. I did buy a temp control device for my fridge in the garage to do further fermentations in. That will solve that problem.

7. How do you oxygenate?
I take the glass carboy and shake the crap out of it for 15 minutes after pitching my yeast.

8.Sparge Process?
I fly sparge. It takes at least an hour to sparge. I think I am getting channeling though. I have the 10 gallon system from morebeer.com http://morebeer.com/view_product/15631/ ... ain_System The sparge arm sucks. I try to leave a couple of inches of water above the grain, but invariably I get some tunneling.

9. How do I check for starch conversion?
Um...I don't. I'm not familiar with that.

10. How do I mill grain?
I have a barley crusher set at the default position.

I really appreciate all this help guys. I'm sure it is something I'm doing wrong, but with your help, will solve.

What I really need is to brew with someone who knows what they are doing. Anyone interested in me coming over for a brew day or coming to my house in Buena Park to help me?

Thx,

Eric

[brahn]

I would guess that your low efficiency is due to your crush. It might be exaggerated by channeling, but I'd start by adjusting the crush. Either set the gap smaller, or run the mill faster.

I think a lot of people here would tell you that the single most important thing they did to improve their beer was controlling fermentation temperatures. Get a fridge, or put your fermenter in a water bath and use ice to cool it.

I'd also check the calibration on your hydrometer and thermometer because it's easy and might explain some of these issues.

[dhempy]

Crush = Where I was going Brent .. thanks for putting it so succinctly.
Ferm Temp: +1 ... I agree wholeheartedly with that statement.

Dan

I would guess that your low efficiency is due to your crush. It might be exaggerated by channeling, but I'd start by adjusting the crush. Either set the gap smaller, or run the mill faster.

I think a lot of people here would tell you that the single most important thing they did to improve their beer was controlling fermentation temperatures. Get a fridge, or put your fermenter in a water bath and use ice to cool it.

I'd also check the calibration on your hydrometer and thermometer because it's easy and might explain some of these issues.

[jward]

2. How do I cool down my wort?
I have a copper wort chiller that I run for 35 minutes. I haven't taken a temp since the first time I did it.
4. What temp do you pitch the yeast at?
Idon't usually rehydrate the yeast, but if it calls for it then I get the water to the 70's. I don't know the temp of the wort it is going into.
6. How do I control temperature during fermentation?
Well...I don't. And with the temps being in the 90's and 100's during the day and now 50's at night I'd say the wide swings in temperatures are probably killing my yeast prematurely. I did buy a temp control device for my fridge in the garage to do further fermentations in. That will solve that problem.

It's time to start measuring. Much of the year my tap water is 82F. Yup, too hot to pitch and it takes for ever to cool the wort. I usually use the tap water to get to ~100F and then use ice and recirculating to get down to 70F or less. Fermentation is exothermic so you want to start cool and keep it that way. I'd say chill down to ~70F, pitch your yeast, and ferment with your controller set at sweet spot for your yeast.

When your wort drops in temp too quickly the yeast can drop out and go dormant. You might try rousing the yeast by gently swirling the wort to get the lightest white/tan yeast back in suspension.

What I really need is to brew with someone who knows what they are doing. Anyone interested in me coming over for a brew day or coming to my house in Buena Park to help me?

I'll drop you a PM next time I brew. I live in Irvine. Feel free to let me know next time you brew too.

[jward]

What are you using the test the gravities? If you're using a hydrometer, have you checked it's calibration recently? Try checking the gravity of some roughly 60 degree water, it should come out really close to 1.000.

I use an optical hydrometer that measure in Specific Gravity.

What's an optical hydrometer? If you use a hydometer as in the little glass floating instrument, check it like Brent suggests. The paper in the tube can slide and you would never know it's off. Since your OG is low and your FG is high, I doubt an off hydrometer would explain both. If you use a refractometer then they don't work once fermentation starts. The alcohol messes up the reading.