bottling issues
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bottling issues
Hey guys,
For my past two batches Ive had issues with my carbonation. The issue is that beyond a mild effervescence there is no Co2. I don't really care, il drink good beer how ever it is served warm, cold, out of a boot doesn't matter to me. My friends chief complaint is the Co2 or lack there of. so here are the facts:
last batch i bottled this current batch i legged in a Cornie
i am a Nazi when it comes to cleaning and sanitizing.
the last two batches have been extracts
one of which was a German honey blond
the other a new castle clone (recipe reads old castle)
All of my batches in NY came out perfect (when i lived there) now im in CA
the only thing i can come up with is maybe im not heating my priming sugar and water hot enough
im a Chef/Baker so i know my procedure is accurate and to the letter
Any thoughts are welcome
For my past two batches Ive had issues with my carbonation. The issue is that beyond a mild effervescence there is no Co2. I don't really care, il drink good beer how ever it is served warm, cold, out of a boot doesn't matter to me. My friends chief complaint is the Co2 or lack there of. so here are the facts:
last batch i bottled this current batch i legged in a Cornie
i am a Nazi when it comes to cleaning and sanitizing.
the last two batches have been extracts
one of which was a German honey blond
the other a new castle clone (recipe reads old castle)
All of my batches in NY came out perfect (when i lived there) now im in CA
the only thing i can come up with is maybe im not heating my priming sugar and water hot enough
im a Chef/Baker so i know my procedure is accurate and to the letter
Any thoughts are welcome
Beer is like bread just in different ratios.
- backyard brewer
- Posts: 3774
- Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2005 5:38 pm
- Location: Orange County, CA
- Contact:
How much sugar are you using for what size batch? How long are you waiting for carbonation and at what temp?
When I bottled and sugar primed, I found it was important to add my dissolved sugar to the bottom of my empty bottling bucket and then rack the beer on top. I would make sure that the hose would create a slight whirlpool to facilitate a thorough mixing of the priming sugar. That doesn't sound like your problem though, since you didn't mention that some of the bottles were over-carbed. Usually with inconsistent mixing, some of the bottles are gushers or flat out exploders.
When I bottled and sugar primed, I found it was important to add my dissolved sugar to the bottom of my empty bottling bucket and then rack the beer on top. I would make sure that the hose would create a slight whirlpool to facilitate a thorough mixing of the priming sugar. That doesn't sound like your problem though, since you didn't mention that some of the bottles were over-carbed. Usually with inconsistent mixing, some of the bottles are gushers or flat out exploders.
Hi Otterbaub:
First welcome to the board.
We'll probably need a little more information to help ...
Tell us about your primary / secondary regimen and any racking please.
How much priming sugar are you adding? Are you adding immediately prior to bottling? How long are you letting your bottles condition after filling (how long after bottling are they sitting at room temp before opening)?
What is your kegging procedure (i.e. are you adding priming sugar or force carbonating)? How long are you letting your keg sit and at what temp?
It seems to me that for bottle carbonating it can be one of several things ... 1) not enough sugar for the yeast to convert to CO2, 2) not enough yeast to do the conversion, 3) not enough time passing for the yeast to do their thing, or 4) wrong conditioning temp.
Things are different if you're force carbonating a keg, if not, then the above applies. For force carbonating, you want to have the beer be cold as it absorbs CO2 more readily. CO2 pressure and agitation also comes into play as does length of time.
We'll look forward to your additional info!
Dan
First welcome to the board.
We'll probably need a little more information to help ...
Tell us about your primary / secondary regimen and any racking please.
How much priming sugar are you adding? Are you adding immediately prior to bottling? How long are you letting your bottles condition after filling (how long after bottling are they sitting at room temp before opening)?
What is your kegging procedure (i.e. are you adding priming sugar or force carbonating)? How long are you letting your keg sit and at what temp?
It seems to me that for bottle carbonating it can be one of several things ... 1) not enough sugar for the yeast to convert to CO2, 2) not enough yeast to do the conversion, 3) not enough time passing for the yeast to do their thing, or 4) wrong conditioning temp.
Things are different if you're force carbonating a keg, if not, then the above applies. For force carbonating, you want to have the beer be cold as it absorbs CO2 more readily. CO2 pressure and agitation also comes into play as does length of time.
We'll look forward to your additional info!
Dan
Answers
Ok here are the answers to your questions
for Backyard Brewer
amount of sugar 3/4c for 5 gallon
usually wait about a week give or take , the temp is usually low 70's in a downstairs bathroom that never gets used, the temp is pretty constant
how ever even after a month still same effect
i add the sugar to the base of the bottling bucket and swirl like mentioned
kevinham
i only chill the bottles after a week and then i put them in an hour or so before i drink them so they are kept out untill then,
dhempy
primary is normal 6 gallon bucket with airlock
i rack to a glass carboy with airlock and pull with an auto siphon
i add sugar water mixture to the bottom of a bottling bucket
a week to condition
3/4c sugar for 5 gallons
for keggin im adding priming sugar
anything else let me know
for Backyard Brewer
amount of sugar 3/4c for 5 gallon
usually wait about a week give or take , the temp is usually low 70's in a downstairs bathroom that never gets used, the temp is pretty constant
how ever even after a month still same effect
i add the sugar to the base of the bottling bucket and swirl like mentioned
kevinham
i only chill the bottles after a week and then i put them in an hour or so before i drink them so they are kept out untill then,
dhempy
primary is normal 6 gallon bucket with airlock
i rack to a glass carboy with airlock and pull with an auto siphon
i add sugar water mixture to the bottom of a bottling bucket
a week to condition
3/4c sugar for 5 gallons
for keggin im adding priming sugar
anything else let me know
Beer is like bread just in different ratios.
- maltbarley
- Posts: 2408
- Joined: Thu Dec 08, 2005 9:31 am
- Location: Orange, CA
Hi Otterbaub:
Looking at your answers, it seems to me that 1 week isn't enough conditioning time. I would think a minimum of 2 weeks for carbonating in the bottle is required. If you have some still in bottle, let 'em sit at room temp for a week or two and then re-chill.
I haven't tried keg conditioning (priming for natural carbonation). Aside from still needing time, also check for any leaks ... if the CO2 is escaping, no pressure is building up and therefor the beer isn't absorbing any. I would think after a couple of weeks at room temp, a few days chilling would enhance the absorption of CO2.
Maltbarley's thought is an interesting possibility as well.
Good luck! Keep us posted.
Dan
Looking at your answers, it seems to me that 1 week isn't enough conditioning time. I would think a minimum of 2 weeks for carbonating in the bottle is required. If you have some still in bottle, let 'em sit at room temp for a week or two and then re-chill.
I haven't tried keg conditioning (priming for natural carbonation). Aside from still needing time, also check for any leaks ... if the CO2 is escaping, no pressure is building up and therefor the beer isn't absorbing any. I would think after a couple of weeks at room temp, a few days chilling would enhance the absorption of CO2.
Maltbarley's thought is an interesting possibility as well.
Good luck! Keep us posted.
Dan
Welcome Otter!
The one piece of info missing is how long your beer was in primary/secondary. If it was extended, it is possible that all the yeast dropped out of suspension. Also of interest would be the yeast strain you used. Some strains tend to drop out faster than others. Like everyone else said, the more info you can post, the more useful we can be in helping you troubleshoot.
Cheers!
Lars
The one piece of info missing is how long your beer was in primary/secondary. If it was extended, it is possible that all the yeast dropped out of suspension. Also of interest would be the yeast strain you used. Some strains tend to drop out faster than others. Like everyone else said, the more info you can post, the more useful we can be in helping you troubleshoot.
Cheers!
Lars
Shut up and brew
- backyard brewer
- Posts: 3774
- Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2005 5:38 pm
- Location: Orange County, CA
- Contact:
- maltbarley
- Posts: 2408
- Joined: Thu Dec 08, 2005 9:31 am
- Location: Orange, CA
- brew captain
- Posts: 1158
- Joined: Sat Oct 01, 2005 8:41 am
answers part deux
Arn't i the belle of the ball.
i usually wait about 7 days before i move on to to racking or secondary
as per the yeast im using is Nottingham ale yeast
after a week no carb-unchilled
after a month no carb-unchilled
as for the keg i had them water and pressure test (in front of me) all the joints before i bought it
like i said i don't really care still taste good to me , i should prob just tell my friends to stop bitching about free Newcastle, or they can go back to drinking their bud light
i usually wait about 7 days before i move on to to racking or secondary
as per the yeast im using is Nottingham ale yeast
after a week no carb-unchilled
after a month no carb-unchilled
as for the keg i had them water and pressure test (in front of me) all the joints before i bought it
like i said i don't really care still taste good to me , i should prob just tell my friends to stop bitching about free Newcastle, or they can go back to drinking their bud light
Beer is like bread just in different ratios.
Hey Otterbaub:
You need active yeast, fermentable sugar, proper temp and time, and a good seal to get CO2 into your beer. I would think that one of those things went awry with your mildly effervescent batch.
For your kegged batch, you can always force carbonate to bring the CO2 up.
Glad you stopped by, visit often!
Dan
You need active yeast, fermentable sugar, proper temp and time, and a good seal to get CO2 into your beer. I would think that one of those things went awry with your mildly effervescent batch.
For your kegged batch, you can always force carbonate to bring the CO2 up.
Glad you stopped by, visit often!
Dan