Marris Otter grain data from last group buy (last year)

[Rezzin]

Does anyone have the grain data for Marris Otter from the last group buy last year? Thanks.

[Rezzin]

anyone?

[spkrtoy]

Mike, What exactly is it you're looking for?
You can go to the maltsters site and look it up, and I could be wrong but I think it does not vary much from year to year.

[backyard brewer]

Mike, What exactly is it you're looking for?
You can go to the maltsters site and look it up, and I could be wrong but I think it does not vary much from year to year.

Actually it can vary substantially from year to year just like AA% in hops can. There should be a lot number on the sack, with that lot number you should be able to call the maltster and get the info.

However, I'd be pretty impressed if you could attribute inconsistencies in your efficiency and flavor to the crop changes.

[Rezzin]

The reason I ask is I recently got a new computer and had to reinstall Promash. I saved my sessions and recipes but forgot to back up everything else up.

When I brewed the Cali Common I formulated using 2-row (I used MO instead) and when I came in a bit higher on my gravity, I just figured it was an efficiency difference at the time. It just now occured to me as I was looking over my notes that - duh - I used MO instead of 2-row!

I'll go look at the sack a little later this evening. The container is kinda buried in the back of the closet right now so I'm just being lazy I guess...

[brew captain]

Default settings.

Thank you.



Cheers!

[Rezzin]

Default settings.

Thank you.



Cheers!

[brew captain]

My point is Mike that you are going to get pretty darn close to the actual numbers with the default settings in ProMash. The rest is up to you and your ecperience brewing with different grains. My point is, to quote Chris Colby, the beer in your glass is more important than the beer on your computer. More time should be spent evaluating and comparing your beer to commercial ecamples then trying to recreate it in ProMash. Over time your palate with learn to distinguish the small nuances between ingredients and you will come to depend on your senses more than your software.

That is my approach anyway. ProMash is great to get you through the brew session, but once you are staring at that beer in the glass it is not going to tell you much. Your brewing technique is going to have a greater impact on your beer than the small seasonal differences in your base grain!

Cheers!

[Rezzin]

My point is Mike that you are going to get pretty darn close to the actual numbers with the default settings in ProMash. The rest is up to you and your ecperience brewing with different grains. My point is, to quote Chris Colby, the beer in your glass is more important than the beer on your computer. More time should be spent evaluating and comparing your beer to commercial ecamples then trying to recreate it in ProMash. Over time your palate with learn to distinguish the small nuances between ingredients and you will come to depend on your senses more than your software.

That is my approach anyway. ProMash is great to get you through the brew session, but once you are staring at that beer in the glass it is not going to tell you much. Your brewing technique is going to have a greater impact on your beer than the small seasonal differences in your base grain!

Cheers!

All I wanted was the grain data.

I think the numbers are important. It helps gauge your efficiency which ultimately helps you dial in your system. Brewing consistent is also a an important aspect to brewing good beer. If you brew something spectacular, how are you going to recreate unless you know exactly what you did?

Btw, the reason I was asking for MO was not for the seasonal numbers, it was because I didn't see any entry for Marris Otter in the default base grain list for Promash. I didn't know which grain to sub with so I figured I might as well ask if anyone had the grain data. haha, I wasn't trying to get so picky as to input the details of each individual grain if that's what it sounded like!

I've never been much of a style nazi myself. I'll brew beers 'according to style' but I may sometimes switch things up a bit based on what I think tastes good. As long as the finished product is good, I'm happy. I may enter a comp if I think I have a good beer but I don't brew for comps quite yet.

I have a long way to fully understanding all the different grains and hops. It's a good thing I'm not in a rush!

[maltbarley]

Isn't it just Pale 2-Row?

[lars]

Isn't it just Pale 2-Row?

I think you need to look for Pale Malt and then look for Great Britian as the counrty of origin. Or at least that's what I do in BeerSmith.

[BrewMasterBrad]

My Beersmith actually has an entry for Pale Malt, Maris Otter.

In my experience looking at grain analyses, the main difference from year to year is going to be in the diastatic power, soluble protien, and free amino nitrogen (FAN). Of course, depending on growing conditions, the size of the grain kernels can also vary from year to year. Keeping these things in my mind, what does this mean to the home brewer? Not much, I'm afraid. Let's assume you could, or even wanted, to make small changes in your recipes to account for the small changes in your malt profile. Are you really going to be that anal about it? Is that even possible at the home brew level? In my opinion, your process and your sanitation are more important factors in batch to batch consistency than small changes in your malt profiles. Part of the beauty and wonder of home brewing is the small differences in the same recipe from brew to brew. The maltsters do a great job of providing us with consistent products with which to brew. I wouldn't waste my time chasing down a malt analysis to enter the details into my brewing program. Just use the default settings. Of course, this is just my opinion. I could be wrong.

If you want more info on what the malt analysis actually means, see this article - http://brewingtechniques.com/bmg/noonan.html

Brad